Self-Aggrandizement: new york sushi

Here's the scoop: While the plebeian believe Nobu has New York's best sushi, any purist will poo-poo the idea. Like Japanese Raku earthenware, Sushi is an art form that has evolved over hundreds of years to a deceptive simplicity. Tossing in a bit of Peruvian 'flair' is a bit like painting a Raku vase in pastels - interesting and perhaps oddly enjoyable, but certainly not the genuine article.

True sushi connoisseurs often cite Kuruma Zushi as the city's best, or perhaps Tsukiji Sushisay, which requires all of its chefs to train for a minimum of five years in the Tokyo branch before coming to prepare sushi here in the New York restaurant. Certainly, both are exceedingly good. Yet a relatively-undiscovered newcomer has thrown down the gauntlet. I suspect that, within the year, Sushi Yasuda will be broadly recognized as New York's sushi king.

Chef Maomichi Yasuda, of Hatsuhana lineage, starts with one of the city's widest assortments of extremely fresh fish. He then serves up slightly smaller than average pieces that literally melt in your mouth. (Nota bene: Along with the flawless sushi, make sure to try the nameko (mushroom) miso to start and certainly don't miss the green tea mochi ice cream for desert.) The perfection is in the details: the chefs vary the size of the sushi pieces according to the size of diners' mouths, and a different type of tea is served with each course. Topping it off, the minimalist blond wood decor elegantly reflects the simple perfection of the sushi itself. The place is small and increasingly popular, however, so make sure to book in advance (or, if you know Japanese, take my approach and kiss up to the Maitre D').

Sushi Yasuda. 43rd between Second and Third. (212) 972-1001. Book now, thank me later.

new york sushi Filed Saturday, March 2 2002.

new york sushi
Filed Saturday, March 2 2002.